Seashells and postcards fill a cheerful shop near the coast, the kind of place you wander into for a magnet and leave. Then a small wooden door near the back catches the eye, and a staff member explains it leads to a tunnel dug by hand more than a hundred years ago.
Below that door, 145 steps twist down through golden sandstone until the ocean suddenly roars right in front of you. The air turns cool and damp, the light fades, and the sound grows louder with every step.
Reaching the bottom brings salt spray, a grin, and a heartbeat that takes a moment to settle. This is the only sea cave in California you can reach by land, and most visitors walk right past the entrance without knowing it exists.
The tunnel was carved by two brothers who turned their curiosity into a landmark. Standing at the bottom, waves crash against the opening while tourists snap photos above.
Hours slip away in that little shop, and the memory lasts much longer. It is a secret hiding in plain sight.
A Souvenir Shop With a Hidden Doorway
My first clue that something unusual was going on came from the line of people outside a tiny wood-shingled building. Nobody waits that patiently for keychains, so I joined them.
On weekends the wait can stretch to about half an hour, while weekdays are often much quieter.
Inside, The Cave Store is packed with fun things to look at. There are shiny shells in every size, mermaid decor, postcards, jewelry, and work by local artists.
The shop also sells ice cream and cold drinks, which felt like a smart reward for later.
Tickets are bought right at the counter, and you cannot purchase them ahead of time online. Small groups go down together, so staff let only a dozen or so people in at once.
You will likely sign a waiver and hear a quick safety talk before heading toward the back.
That plain wooden door is the real star. It looks like it might lead to a storage closet, which makes opening it even more exciting.
My tip is to arrive close to the 9 am opening if you want a calmer visit. The shop closes around 4:30 pm, and late arrivals can get turned away when the line runs long.
Dug by Hand Back in 1902
History buffs, this part is for you. In 1902, a German-born painter and engineer named Gustav Schultz had a bold idea: what if people could reach a sea cave without a boat?
He hired two Chinese laborers to dig a tunnel straight through the sandstone cliff, starting from the spot where the gift shop stands today. They worked mostly with simple tools, chipping away at the rock bit by bit.
The job took roughly a year and a half to finish.
Once it opened, curious visitors could walk down into one of the seven sea caves along the La Jolla shoreline. Picture folks in long dresses and stiff collars carefully stepping into the dark.
I loved imagining that while I waited my turn.
Old photos and info panels on the shop walls tell more of the story, so take a few minutes to read them before going down. Nobody gives a formal tour, which means the walls are your guide.
Knowing the tunnel was carved by human hands changed how I saw every step. It stopped being just a staircase and became a small, impressive piece of California history that people still use every single day.
Counting All 145 Steps
Cool, damp air hit me the second I stepped through the door. Ahead, a narrow tunnel slanted downward, lit by small lamps glowing against rough sandstone.
Yes, I counted the steps, and yes, I lost track around eighty. The staircase holds 145 wooden steps, and they are short with handrails on both sides.
Around the halfway point, things get wet and slippery, so hold that rail like it owes you money.
Tall people, watch your head. The ceiling dips low in a few spots, and I caught myself ducking even when I did not need to.
That feeling of squeezing through a secret passage is half the fun.
Wear shoes with good grip, not flip-flops. Kids as young as seven and plenty of older visitors make the trip, so taking it slow is totally normal.
If you feel nervous, pause on a landing and breathe.
The walls show bands of red and blue mixed into the gold rock, which are natural mineral stains. Reaching out to look at them up close gave me a fun excuse to rest for a second.
Carrying a baby or toddler can be tricky here, so plan ahead with a carrier.
The Ocean Starts Talking
Somewhere past the slippery middle section, the quiet of the tunnel gave way to a deep rumble. At first I thought it was my own heavy breathing.
It was the Pacific.
Waves crash into the cave below, and the sound bounces up through the rock like a giant drum. Every few seconds there is a whoosh, a boom, and then a long hiss as the water pulls back out.
I slowed down just to listen.
The smell changes too. Earthy, dusty tunnel air slowly mixes with salty sea spray, and the walls start to look darker and damper.
It is a little like the cave is breathing on you.
Then a soft blue glow appears around the last bend. That light pulled me forward faster than any sign could.
Here is a small tip I picked up: if your group lets others pass, you might get a moment almost alone with the noise. The Cave Store team has shared that hearing the waves in a quiet moment is one of their favorite parts, and after trying it, I understand why.
Close your eyes for a few seconds and simply let the ocean sound wrap around you before the final steps.
A Front Row Seat Inside the Cliff
Turquoise water rushing toward my feet was the first thing I saw from the wooden viewing platform at the bottom. The cave opens straight to the sea, framing the ocean like a living window.
Waves surge in, slap the walls, and slide back out again. Sometimes the water looks calm and glassy, and other times it churns into white foam.
No two minutes look the same.
Wildlife often shows up nearby. Sea lions and harbor seals sometimes swim close to the opening, and lucky visitors have even spotted one napping.
Keep an eye out for crabs, snails, and seabirds too, though nature does not run on a schedule.
You can stay as long as you like, but most people spend about five to fifteen minutes. That is plenty for photos and quiet staring.
Lighting is fairly dim, so phone pictures can be tricky. I had better luck shooting toward the bright opening, which turns the cave walls into a dark frame around the blue water.
Try to be patient with other groups when it gets crowded. The space is small, and sharing the best spot makes the moment nicer for everybody standing on that platform.
A Name Borrowed From a Cereal Box
Did you know the author of The Wonderful Wizard of Oz named this cave? L.
Frank Baum spent time in the area, and he is credited with giving it its playful title.
He thought the outline of the cave opening, seen from inside, looked like Sunny Jim. That character was a cheerful cartoon mascot for Force cereal in the early 1900s, with a pointy nose and a little ponytail.
Back then, lots of people would have recognized him instantly.
So I turned around on the platform and squinted at the opening. Honestly, it took me a minute.
Then the shape clicked, and I could see a face in profile staring out at the sea.
Make it a game with kids or friends. Whoever spots the nose first wins the right to pick the ice cream flavor upstairs.
I love that a famous storyteller left his mark on this little hollow in the cliffs. It makes a dark, damp cave feel friendly, almost like it has a personality of its own.
Next time someone asks why it is called Sunny Jim, you will have a fun answer ready.
Climbing Back Into the Sunshine
Going down was the easy part. My legs reminded me of that around step one hundred on the way up, and I happily admit to stopping twice.
Take your time on the climb. Each step brings warmer air and brighter light, and suddenly you pop back into the busy, colorful shop.
It felt a bit like waking up from a dream.
Parking takes some planning. There is a tiny lot with only a few spaces, plus street parking that fills up fast, especially on weekends.
A paid garage sits across the street if circling the block gets old.
Once you are done, the neighborhood is worth exploring. The Coast Walk Trail runs nearby, with benches and wide ocean views where you can catch your breath.
La Jolla Cove and the Children’s Pool, where seals often lounge, are an easy stroll away.
I ended my visit sitting on the bluff, watching kayakers paddle toward the same caves I had just seen from the inside. That view felt even more special now.
Discounts exist for kids, seniors, students, and military, so ask at the counter. Visit, climb, and then wander the coast slowly.
Address: 1325 Coast Blvd, La Jolla, California 92037
