An Offbeat South Africa Road Trip, Plan It Your Way

A road trip across South Africa will open your eyes to the real country. The people, moments and memories of overland travel shape travelers as much as all the Instagram posts in the world.

Here’s a look at the six days we spent trip there, our South Africa road trip itinerary, and the road trip budget for our custom adventure.

Why We Didn’t Choose a Typical South Africa Driving Itinerary

For our first visit to South Africa, we budgeted one day of flying and six days of fun. (We were meeting the rest of our family for a cruise safari departing from Johannesburg the following week.) We flew New York > Zurich > Cape Town and wanted to see more of the country.

Online blogs touted the virtues of the Garden Route (wrong season) and Kruger National Park (we were going on safari the following week.) We passed on the Stellenbosch wine region, South Africa’s top honeymooner attraction, because we are not big wine drinkers. The infamously tough-to-navigate Cape of Good Hope was 5 hours’ away in the wrong direction.

We avoided the drives on the Panorama Route and Wild Coast (too long.) We skipped the Drakensberg Mountains (not enough time for hiking.)

Our Custom South Africa Road Trip Route

Instead, we asked Cape Archives Tours to focus on contemporary Black culture rather than a white colonial past.

Xavier at Cape Archives Tours worked closely with us to plan a fascinating, four-day itinerary between Cape Town and Johannesburg. We reviewed a few options. Our final itinerary touched on the country’s parks and gardens, cultural sites, scenic byways, culinary hotspots, historic towns, agriculture and mining.

Many would say that our private guided tour – a Black man driving a white couple — is not any more realthan the cliches we read about Africa online. But it was certainly impactful to us.

Tip: Order the National Geographic South Africa Adventure Travel Map ($14.95) before you depart. It’s waterproof and tear-resistant – important because it unfolds into a closeup view of local roads, with the country laid out on both sides.

A Cape Town Sampler for Road Trippers

Cape Town exudes the easy-going charm of Santa Monica, California. We spent two days enjoying the familiar pleasures of galleries, beach walks and fine restaurants. We ogled the beachfront Kamps Bay neighborhood where Oprah Winfrey and Matt Damon reputedly had third, fourth or fifth homes.

The city’s highlights included riding the cable car 3,501 feet up to Table Mountain as the clouds parted. In addition to the spectacular views, make time for the free, hour-long Summit Walking tour. You’ll see the adorable rock hyrax (known as dassies) which look like the furry Ushanka hats the Russians wear. This tour also provides a good introduction to South Africa’s unique fynbos landscape.

Robben Island, the prison best known for inmate Nelson Mandela, was closed for restoration at our visit. The experience requires about four hours from the V&A waterfront to tour it by ferry and foot.  

We only had time for one tasty meal on the V&A Waterfront, at Tiger’s Milk. (Note that the A stands for Alfred, Queen Victoria’s son; not Albert, her husband.) The harbor once thrived on ships rounding the Cape of Good Hope, but the 1869 opening of the Suez Canal changed international shipping routes forever. In addition to many restaurants, today’s V&AW features a large shopping mall, offices, aquariums, museums, hotels, residences, a boat marina and a cruise terminal.

Meet Joseph, South African Driver and Guide

We left our fun, beachfront Winchester Shoreditch Hotel after only two nights. We were sorry to say goodbye to the vibrant B&W tiled atrium and superb Pac Rim cuisine restaurant.

Joseph, our driver, had arrived. He was tall, slender and stylish, at the helm of a new black RAV4 SUV. We soon learned that his knowledge of five languages, history and culture would enrich the trip immeasurably. (More about Joseph here.)

The Western Cape, Day One of our South Africa Road Trip

We cruised up the R27 in Western Cape to tour West Coast National Park. Like much of the Cape, the white sand is gorgeous. The Atlantic surf is too cold for swimmers, yet surfers go out regularly in wetsuits. Be sure to explore the nearby flowering fynbos in the Postberg Nature Center. The biome’s super-sized succulents and unusual plants surprise visitors in late winter and spring.

The Boesmanland Biltong Bar food truck was our introduction to street food. Joseph explained that biltong is a favorite African jerky made from springbok, ostrich or other local game. It comes in many flavors, including Peri Peri.

(We first sampled this unusual spicy, tart sauce in St. Augustine, Florida. When Africans sailors settled Spain’s new colony in 1565, they brought many culinary traditions with them.) Perhaps the leathery snack will become tastier over time?

!Kwhaa-ttu San Heritage Center, Must-See Roadside Attraction

!Khwaa ttu was the first cultural stop on our South Africa adventure. The San tribal heritage center has a lodge and restaurant run by aboriginal people. (Take advantage of being able to spend a night here in the countryside if you have time.)

Our San guide explains their click-talk language. We learn that San marriage customs empower women by demanding a high bride price in cattle from every courting groom. Our guide Joseph reveals he, too, is saving his money for a bride. Yellow Weavers are chattering in the trees. Male birds flutter next to each intricately woven hanging nest to attract potential mates. If females reject a male’s construction effort, he will destroy it and start building again. To Joseph, it is the African way.

First South Africa Roadtrip Overnight: Victorian Village of Matjiesfontein

Heading east, we drove through some of the country’s renowned wine region. It truly is scenic (top wine region day tours.) You’ll want to relax at the many places to stay around Stellenbosch because, as we soon discovered, the wines are excellent.

We stopped at an old inn, the Lord Milner, in a tiny place called Matjiesfontein. Candles lit the scary portrait of his Lordship watching over the Victorian lobby.

In the semi-dark dining room, three waitresses in black uniforms with white bonnets recited the daily special. The Springbok steak, mashed potatoes and pap (a bread of ground maize baked in donut shapes) were all delicious.

Matjiesfontein was more impressive the next morning. The same uniformed staff presented a robust international breakfast buffet with a choice of oat milk or almond milk. Outside, the legendary Rovos Rail luxury train was humming on tracks while school children toured the main street’s other Victorian buildings.

Two Places You Must Stop on Your South Africa Road Trip

The first must-stop place is Wimpy. It is the favored gas station and fast-food chain for road-trippers. Joseph likes it because it is not as fancy as MacDonald’s yet has reliable food and clean restrooms.

The second place was an unexpected detour for us, to Boeteka Padstal. The funky roadside attraction / trading post on R306 isn’t too far from Beaufort West. Decades separate its merchandise from South Africa’s chic African fashion boutiques. We cannot believe the dusty Cape buffalo heads, hand-carved wooden items, worn books and mismatched second-hand clothes. We perused snake souvenirs, frozen kudu steaks and beaded trinkets while awaiting the delicious sandwiches sold in this place. 

Exploring South Africa’s Karoo and The Eastern Cape

With Joseph driving, we scan the passing horizon. A few warthogs, some merino sheep, and an eland leap along. Baboons wait by the side of the road like extras in “Planet of the Apes” as we zoom by. Joseph, disgusted, says they are the African raccoon and even roam city streets.

Otherwise, South Africa’s karoo, the cattle ranching terrain at the country’s core, resembles West Texas. Strong winds kick up the tumbleweed. Honey Mesquite trees break up the monotony of dry fields. Our goal was Camdeboo National Park and its horror-movie-worthy scenery.

We drove to one of the park’s highest points to overlook the famed Valley of Desolation. Its craggy peaks, seen from a trail leading to the summit, are magnificent even without hiking to the very top. We vow to return one day, stay at a campsite, and look for the park’s 51 mammal species that include mountain zebra, buffalo, kudu and springbok.

Graaff-Reinet, Road Trippers Base in the Karoo

The second overnight stop, Graaff Reinet, was an affluent oasis. Trim Mediterranean or  Dutch one- and two-story stucco houses lined small streets. The Drostdy Hotel boasts an Old School covered car park full of rugged SUVs, dusty jeeps and ATVs out for long, long road adventures. Rose bushes, wild olives and picket fences surround 38 gleaming white stucco bungalows and outdoor pool.

We are delighted by our tastefully elegant bungalow, with its compact bedroom, living room, lawn patio and B&W tiled bathroom. Karoo artwork, botanical prints and cowskin furnishings accent the décor.

Their famous De Camdeboo restaurant serves tender ostrich followed by Malva pudding. The ambiance, service, menu remind us of posh resort areas like The Hamptons; not what we expected. We are ready to move in.

Day 3 En Route to Kimberley, the Diamond City

On our way through Northern Cape province, we detoured to the Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Center. Rock paintings made by San and Khoi Bushmen sounded intriguing. The barbed wire gates and debris strewn entrance, however, looked abandoned. We drove on.

The highway approach to Kimberley is a startling change from Graaff-Reinet. The highway hosts piles of garbage and plastic. Dozens of people walk along the shoulder. Small, corrugated tin and cardboard huts line the horizon. Even Joseph was distressed that this small, touristy city looked “so undeveloped” as he put it.

He muses about work opportunities for recent arrivals to the region, now that the diamond mines have closed. Joseph says the state of the homes reflects their residents’ background, since tribes who emigrated from the bush would use found materials for a shelter rather than invest in a house. Kimberley may not be as poor as it appeared.

Kimberley and The Big Hole

Visitors find plenty of parking at The Big Hole. The 240-meter-deep pit mine was established in 1871 by Cecil Rhodes after Blacks uncovered small diamonds at Kimberley. Because it took enormous resources to dig deeper mines, Rhodes, aided by the Rothschild banking family, founded the De Beers Mining Company. They bought up all the locals’ claims and invented the requisite drilling equipment.

Our museum guide, David, put on a scratchy, 20-minute background video. “From Diamonds to Destiny” follows a travel writer (!) who becomes a miner to chronicle the era. We all know the story of exploitation that followed.

Interestingly, De Beers used to build wildlife reserves around their mines. The vast spaces prevented smugglers from approaching workers. In 1895, they opened Rooiport, near Kimberley. Today, the preserve’s original giraffe population is thriving alongside many other species.

When The Big Hole closed in 2016, De Beers pivoted to tourism. They built a small, eccentric Western style town around the pit with a comfortable Marriott Hotel.

All South Africa Roads Lead to the Cradle of Humankind

The UNESCO World Heritage site at Maropeng tells a good story about the origins of humankind. A sophisticated, multimedia museum explores issues related to the development of our species, especially Australopithecus africanus. The museum’s miniature theme park ride highlights the four elements that comprise matter. The special effects thrill kids on school trips.

This place is impressive. Plan to spend a half-day to shop for sophisticated African crafts, jewelry and books. Try a braaibroodjie grilled cheese tosti at their café. Explore the Sterkfontein Caves nearby to virtually uncover the skull of Mrs. Ples and thousands of other hominid fossils dating back 3 million years.

Road Tripping to Johannesburg

The traffic suddenly became noticeably denser. More police and large, gated estates appeared as we approached the suburbs of Johannesburg. Scanning the buildings, we looked for signs of the violence Johannesburg has become famous for. We saw none.

Soon we arrived the Hotel 54 on Bath in the heart of Rosebank, a stylish, more international neighborhood. Contemporary art galleries, upscale cafes, fashionable Blacks and white Afrikaners walked the narrow lanes. We bid a fond farewell to Joseph, our memorable new friend from this South Africa expedition.

We checked in, headed upstairs to unpack and waited for our kids to arrive.

Johannesburg, A Worthwhile Finale

If Cape Town is the Los Angeles of South Africa, then certainly the energy of Johannesburg resembles New York. We recommend allowing enough time to tour the many museums and galleries, and sample the restaurants. Go with a guide. While we did not experience any crime or violence, several locals reminded us to be careful on our walks.

The next day, our group tour drove through the township of Soweto, famous for the 1970s riots that led to the end of the segregation system of apartheid.

The Apartheid Museum was, for us, the most important attraction in the entire country. Our local guide Jean-Paul explained the damage inflicted by five decades of racial hatred. We listened, sucked in by historical videos, audio recordings and artifacts from Nelson Mandela’s life.

The pain was almost overwhelming.  

After four days and 2,300 kms, our South Africa road trip had come to an end. 

How Much Does a Guided South Africa Road Trip Cost?

Since South Africa hotels and food are cheap, road trips can be very affordable. The cost depends on your needs. Think about what type of adventure you want to have. Discuss ideas with all trip participants and make sure they all have a vote in the planning.

Determine Your Trip Needs

As an older couple, we wanted to see Cape Town and explore the country’s interior on the way to Johannesburg. A rental car was not an option because we’d read so much about highway crime. (Yet never experienced any trouble.) We did not want to drive ourselves on the “wrong” side of the road. We also knew we’d be tired from the 32-hour flight and wanted a relaxed pace. There was no practical public transportation (trains or buses) running across the country except the very posh Rovos Rail and Blue Train; neither of interest to us. We decided to plan a road trip.

Finding a Tour Operator

Cape Archives Tours planned our custom itinerary.

We discovered them by searching sites like Viator, TripAdvisor and the South Africa Tourism office for local tour operators. Then we read reviews and chose three companies to contact. We emailed a request for information about custom itineraries. Two companies replied and we selected the best answer. (Our decision was part common sense, part instinct.)

When to Go to South Africa

We traveled in August, the height of winter, and wore down jackets in Cape Town and T-shirts in Maropeng. Because the large is large and diverse, any time of year will be perfect in most places and less so in others! Check the weather sites according to what you plan to see.

Road Trip Budget

We knew from research that a car and driver (including fuel, their meals and hotels) would cost about US$500 per day. Cape Archives Tours charged US$75 to develop two different itineraries based on our interests. After more discussion, they suggested a final itinerary and deducted the US$75 fee from the total price.

The total cost for six days of a driver/guide (four days on the tour and two days’ fee for the return to Cape Town), all fuel, three nights’ hotel, admission fees and park permits, was about 59,000ZAR (US$3,450 at November 2025 exchange rates.)

For us, this overland journey across South Africa was priceless.