Smoke curls through the air, carrying the unmistakable scent of slow-cooked meat that promises something unforgettable. Kansas City-style barbecue has found a new home in Portland, and locals can’t get enough of the pig wings, burnt ends, and Frito chili pie that keep people lining up before the doors even open.
The founder brought authentic techniques from the Midwest, smoking meats over Oregon oak for up to 14 hours to get that perfect flavor and tenderness. Every bite tells a story of patience, craft, and passion, whether you’re grabbing takeout or settling in at a table to savor it all.
This isn’t just barbecue – it’s the kind of place that makes Portland rethink smoked meat entirely.
All of this comes together at Lawless Barbecue, a Portland gem that’s quickly earned legendary status.
Pig Wings Take Center Stage
Pig wings aren’t actually wings at all. They’re pork shanks that get smoked low and slow until the meat practically slides off the bone, creating one of the most satisfying bites you’ll find in Portland.
The smoking process at Lawless takes between 13 and 14 hours using local Oregon oak, which gives these beauties a distinct flavor profile you won’t find at chain barbecue spots. The result is meat that’s incredibly tender with a smoky crust that adds texture to every bite.
Wednesday is when pig wing fans mark their calendars, as Lawless runs a special Wing Wednesday promotion at both their Portland locations. The popularity of this dish has turned it into a signature item that defines what makes this tiny joint stand out.
First-timers often order them alongside other meats on the Lawless platter, but regulars know these deserve their own spotlight. The combination of smoke, seasoning, and that perfect bark makes them worth the 14-hour wait.
Kansas City Style Comes to Portland
Kevin Koch didn’t just open another barbecue spot. He brought authentic Kansas City techniques to a city better known for food carts and farm-to-table dining, filling a gap that barbecue lovers had been feeling for years.
Kansas City style means thicker, sweeter sauces and a focus on multiple types of meat prepared with consistent smoking methods. Unlike Texas-style that goes heavy on beef or Carolina-style with its vinegar tang, this approach balances flavors across pork, beef, and poultry.
Reviewers consistently mention that Lawless keeps things less sweet and salty than other barbecue places, which actually lets the smoke and meat quality shine through. The house-made sauces complement rather than drown the proteins, showing restraint that purists appreciate.
For transplants from the Midwest, eating at Lawless feels like a taste of home. One customer from rural Georgia noted that even though it’s Kansas City style, the care and flavor brought back memories of Southern barbecue done right.
The Brisket Gets Serious Attention
Brisket can make or break a barbecue joint’s reputation. At Lawless, this cut gets the full treatment with that 13-hour smoking process that transforms tough meat into something remarkably tender.
Multiple reviewers call out the brisket specifically, praising how it arrives sliced to order rather than sitting under heat lamps. The meat stays moist without being greasy, and the fat renders down to add richness without overwhelming the beef flavor.
Some guests mention the brisket comes served warm rather than piping hot, which is actually intentional. The restaurant explains that barbecue meats are held at proper temperature and sliced fresh to maintain quality, not nuked to steaming.
The chili at Lawless features chunks of this same tender brisket, turning a side dish into something that steals the show. That same careful smoking process makes the brisket work beautifully in sandwiches, nachos, and the popular brisket Philly special.
Burnt Ends Done Right
Burnt ends started as the crusty, flavorful pieces trimmed from brisket points, and Kansas City pitmasters turned them into their own celebrated dish. Lawless serves these little nuggets of concentrated flavor that combine crispy exterior with melt-in-your-mouth interior.
The burnt end sandwich earns particular praise from customers who describe it as excellent and amazing. These pieces get extra time near the heat, allowing the fat to render completely while the meat caramelizes into something special.
Some find them slightly sweet, which is typical of Kansas City preparation where burnt ends often get tossed in sauce before serving. The sweetness balances the smoke and creates layers of flavor that make these addictive.
Ordering burnt ends as a standalone meat option lets you appreciate their texture and taste without distraction. They also appear in daily specials and combinations, giving regulars new ways to enjoy this barbecue favorite that showcases the pitmaster’s skill.
The Lawless Platter Feeds a Crowd
Walking in hungry and indecisive means the Lawless platter is your best friend. This combination gives you a taste of everything the kitchen does well, making it perfect for first visits or sharing with friends.
The platter includes brisket, ribs, sausage, and turkey, along with two sides of your choice. At $53, it’s designed for two people but often leaves leftovers, which customers mention as a bonus rather than a complaint.
Reviewers describe it as generous in size, with fall-off-the-bone ribs and tender brisket that showcase the smoking process. The variety lets you compare different meats and figure out your favorites for future visits.
One couple ordered it alongside brisket nachos and still had plenty to enjoy, noting that everything tasted flavorful and fresh. The platter works equally well for dine-in or takeout, with careful packing that keeps everything organized and at the right temperature for the ride home.
Ribs That Fall Off the Bone
Ribs at Lawless follow that same low-and-slow philosophy that makes everything here worth the wait. Customers consistently describe them as falling off the bone, which is exactly what hours of proper smoking should achieve.
A full rack comes as an option on its own or as part of the Lawless platter, giving you flexibility based on appetite. The meat pulls away cleanly without being mushy, maintaining enough structure to give you that satisfying bite.
One reviewer called them ridiculous in the best possible way, emphasizing how the flavor and texture exceeded expectations. The barbecue sauces available at the table complement without masking the smoke that’s already been absorbed into the meat.
Happy hour deals make ribs even more appealing, with one customer scoring ribs plus sides for just $13. The popularity means they sometimes sell out, especially during weekend lunch rushes, so arriving early or calling ahead helps avoid disappointment.
House-Made Sausage with a Kick
The house sausage at Lawless isn’t just filler on a platter. One customer called it the best sausage they’d ever had, which is high praise in a city full of quality meat producers.
Made in-house, the sausage carries a spicy kick that sneaks up on you rather than hitting immediately. This delayed heat lets you taste the meat and seasoning before the warmth builds, creating a more interesting eating experience.
The smoking process adds another layer of flavor to sausage that’s already been carefully seasoned and stuffed. The casing develops a nice snap when you bite through, while the interior stays juicy and flavorful.
Unlike some barbecue spots that buy pre-made links, Lawless controls the entire process from grinding to smoking. This attention to detail shows up in consistency that keeps customers coming back specifically for the sausage, even when they’re tempted by other menu items.
Brisket Nachos Steal the Show
Nachos might seem like an afterthought at a barbecue joint, but at Lawless they’ve become a menu star that customers specifically recommend. These aren’t your average tortilla chips with melted cheese.
Chunks of smoked brisket top crispy chips along with cheese, creating a combination that one reviewer called unbeatable, especially at the price point. The meat gets the same careful preparation as any other dish, just served in a more casual format.
Multiple customers mention ordering the brisket nachos to share, noting they’re great for groups and substantial enough to work as a meal. The pulled pork version offers another option, though brisket seems to be the crowd favorite.
The nachos appear on happy hour specials, making them an even better value during certain hours. They also travel well for takeout, maintaining their texture better than you’d expect for something that could easily get soggy in a container.
Sides That Complement the Smoke
Barbecue sides can’t just be an afterthought when the mains are this serious. Lawless offers classics like collard greens, barbecue beans, coleslaw, potato salad, mac and cheese, and waffle fries to round out your meal.
The collard greens earn special mention from multiple reviewers as especially great, prepared with enough flavor to stand up to smoky meats. The barbecue beans actually contain sauce mixed in rather than just being cooked nearby, which seems obvious but isn’t always the case.
Potato salad divides opinions, with some finding it more egg-forward than expected, though preferences vary widely on this classic side. The homemade coleslaw has a little kick that cuts through rich meats nicely.
Mac and cheese gets mixed reviews, with some customers wishing for a recipe change, though others find it perfectly fine. The Frito chili pie stands out as an overlooked option that multiple people recommend trying instead of more standard sides.
Two Locations Serving Portland
Lawless operates two locations in the Portland area, with the SE 7th Avenue spot serving as the address most commonly referenced. The interior offers spacious seating along with outdoor options when weather cooperates.
Hours run from 11:30 AM to 8 PM Tuesday through Sunday, with Monday also open at the same times. Arriving right when doors open often means shorter waits and better selection before popular items sell out.
The restaurant maintains a 4.6-star rating across 370 reviews, which is solid considering how passionate people get about barbecue. Takeout remains extremely popular, with careful packing that one Georgia transplant specifically praised.
The space stays clean and maintains a good vibe according to multiple visitors, with friendly staff who explain menu items to newcomers. It’s not designed for large parties, working better for couples or small groups who want quality barbecue without pretense or long waits.
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