Notre Vacances en France: A Euro Road Trip - My Family Travels
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Your guide to a pleasant drive from the U.K. – even with fussy little ones – and a delightful, budget camping adventure in the south of France.

There are many good reasons for taking a holiday in the south of France, but the 12-hour drive down from England is not one of them. However, over the course of our stay, new French friends and our German neighbors offered a number of coping strategies, including the one we adopted for the return trip — travel overnight.

We ate, late on our last night, in the Restaurant au Café de Fraises in Grimaud, a few kilometers inland from the newly built harbor at Port Grimaud, but already high in the Southern Alps. The town is an ancient and lovely ville fleurie, with restaurants from the basic bar tabac to very lush. (This is still the Côte D'Azur). Most towns have a number of fête days in the year and this was one of Grimaud's. From our table we could hear a trio playing Django Reinhard, and in the main square, over the boules area and under some plane trees, was a South American pipe and guitar band.

We left Grimaud at 10:15pm, and the boys were asleep by the time we hit the first AutoRoute. They woke properly at 7am the next morning, as the sun rose and we drove fast through the flat country with the little hills and the villages with churches where each yard was gained at tremendous cost during the Great War. The place names — Cambrais, Arras, Lens, Bethune — bring memories of the Soldier poets, and mud of the First World War battles of the Somme.

Advice from the Front Seat

On this sort of journey it is important to make sure that all passengers are comfortable, and can adjust their own temperature as required. Take plenty of snacks, and plenty of water, within reach of the driver. The passenger is in control of the back seat (of course), and should be prepared with teddies, blankets, and biscuits. There is no place for a hero as far as the driving is concerned. Keep to short shifts, stop and stretch regularly, take it easy. Even with frequent breaks, we made a very fast passage, and enjoyed a tranquil journey and breakfast in Calais (coffee or chocolate, juice, French bread and jam – the works). Contrast this with the diversion tactics on the way south: "Look, more combine harvesters!," "Here's a book!," "Ten minutes to the next dinosaur biscuit!," "What shall we sing next?," and "Aaarrrrgggghhh!"

The South of France We Love

We stopped this year in Cassis; this is the home of the alcoholic blackcurrant cordial. The dramatic les Calanques coastal cliffs are worth an explore. Take a boat from Cassis or drive to the area, but don't leave anything in your car. Later on, enjoy the stylish evening promenade along the harborfront. Then we camped at Le Pont d'Argens, just past St.Tropez and just before Frejus. Everyone loves St.Tropez for its pastel facades, narrow streets and the sheer amount of money on view (much of it floating in the harbor.) But there are prettier villages, on the coast and inland, and the traffic is always shocking, so we turned hard inland and lunched in the Gorge du Verdun – every inch a match for the Grand Canyon (as St.Trop is for Las Vegas.) Flowing between the ancient town of Castellane and the newly formed Lac de St.Croix, the river cuts through tree-lined valleys (up to 2,000-feet deep), and some marvelous bolted limestone — don't forget your rock boots and quick draws.

Family Camping à la Française

There are great campsites in France, and they bear no relation to the corners of fields where we have erected our tent in Britain. There are toilet blocks, they have hot showers and power, there are shops which will arrange local excursions or bicycle hire, and Madame la Proprietresse hosts welcome parties and puts on bands and boules tournaments.

Camping Le Pont d'Argens (Route Nationale 98, 83370 Frejus, St. Aygulf [phone] 33 4 94 51 14 97; [fax] 33 4 94 51 29 44) is a two-star camp and caravan site. The rating appears linked only to cost, not to facilities. At around 26 € (US$32) for our car and family of four per night, and with one of the nicest beaches around (only a 10-minute walk across fields and sand dunes), who's counting stars? The site is 70kms. from Cannes, 35kms. from St.Tropez and perhaps 45 minutes by car from Nice.

On the way into Frejus (two minutes by car, only a few more on roller skates or hired bicycle, using the cycle lanes) is an out-of-town Casino. This is the best sort of hypermarket, where we bought the necessities of life (often going under our kids' indecipherable pseudonyms – Ploppsies, Smoops, Sirtaki) as well as all the luxuries (real chocolate, mosquito-repelling candles, and loads of cheap wine) and then enjoyed paying for it on plastic. Hurrah! Beware, that in common with many smaller French towns, credit cards are not welcomed at most of these establishments. We made full use of the plentiful ATMs in banks and supermarkets to make direct account withdrawals in French Francs.

The sea front at Frejus is typically South-of-France-disgraceful — high rises, pavement cafes, and a beach that looks like an Antarctic seal colony but smells of coconut. Head for the centre ville instead, through massive crumbling city walls, and you are in a quiet and fascinating Roman market town founded by Julius Caesar himself. We ate at the local crêperie with the successful town football team, and drank cidre bouchée, the rough Normandy cider often served in china bowls. It's usually best to avoid eating in the market square (or other obvious attraction) unless you can afford to pay top dollar – the food will otherwise be very poor value for money.


Why We Return

On one evening a few years before in Cassis, a waitress carried our crying 2-year-old with her as she went about her work, while we ate our first civilized meal for days. We had to beat a hasty retreat when the boy filled his nappy, but the experience is typical, so we returned. You will travel to the South of France for the 'Sea & Sun'. You will return with memories of the hinterland. From Marseilles and the Carmargue east, the country is really just as Monet, van Gogh and Cézanne painted it, with fields of lavender, olive trees, tiny villages and churches perched high on cliffs and hillsides. And the cooking, from simple bouillabaisse or pizza au feu du bois, to the traditional Provençale olives, garlic, herbs and tomatoes. Mmmmm. If you are keen, you could look at Grasse (France's perfume capital, based on the lavender fields) or tour any of the (rather excellent) chateaux – those at Bandol are worth a look for the fine rosé wines. Look out for the villages — Villefranche sur mer (fishing port with unspoilt fortified village above) and Eze (just another perched village with pretty streets and stunning views) — and find local museums and galleries everywhere.

Our time with the French has renewed our enthusiasm for excursions en famille. Battered by years of British disapproval and partitioning, it is such a relief to go out in a country that loves children, tolerates their excesses, and soothes harassed parents. We will be back for more.

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2 Replies to “Notre Vacances en France: A Euro Road Trip”

  • todobigo

    On January 15, 2015, Google announced that it would stop selling the Google Glass product to consumers — who became its “Explorers” — while it makes more improvements to the technology and hardware. Simultaneously, the product will move from its test phase at Google X and become its own department within the giant technology company.

    For complete details, please see this story: Google Glass Sales Halted.

  • alli65

    This is a great summary of emerging family travel trends in 2015. I am very excited to see ecotourism evolving to include the youngest travelers as well as multi-gen travelers.  Very interesting to see uber attempt to dig into the family market. As for all-inclusive hotels, after years of resisiting, I am finally a convert.  My kids have always loved them and now their parents finally see the ease and economy of the pay-one-price concept.  Happy Travels in 2015!

    • todobigo

      great feedback on what we’re seeing for 2015; agree that ecotourism has become so mainstream that it’s time all ages and all abilities (including those with disabilities) are included in nature-focused travel.

      And yes, disruptive technologies like uber and airbnb are usually started by young people and grow by appealing to young travelers, but as we all know, they too will settle down and have kids and then look at new ways to make their services more “family-friendly.”  So that’s an area where we see tremendous growth potential and hope for fresh ideas.

      excited about what’s coming in 2015! Thanks for your comments.

  • Ron

    I’m in, would love to win a stay at the Camelback water park in Pennsylvania. Close to my NJ home and sounds like a fun snowy or rainy day break with my boys. Sign me up!

  • KitBernardi
    Congratulations to the 2014 writing and photography winners! I’m so proud to be part of the Family Travel Forum’s contest administration by helping orchestrate the Society of American Travel Writers’ role for eight years providing scholarship prize money and judges for the Family Travel Forum Teen Travel Writing Scholarship. This contest designed to foster the development of young travel journalists is one of the most rewarding things I’ve done in my travel writing career. There’s so much talent out there, and thanks to Family Travel Forum there’s a global venue for it to be showcased. Write On!  Kit Bernardi
     
  • admin

    After returning from a vacation with her daughter, C.S. shared this review of the Dreams Punta Cana resort in the Dominican Republic.

    “Hi, we did not get sick at Dreams Punta Cana, stuck to bottled water, they were nice there not really attentive at concierge or lobby not knowledgeable and internet not working well, entertainment was okay and food just okay beach nice, tours not organized very well for swim with dolphins and no shopping for malls provided.

    Yes the food was not great at all, hoping for better at gourmet restaurants, they always burnt the steak and not great the food, the world café was fine, buffet.

    Kids club for my 8 year old she was bored, most of the kids were younger and not a lot to do for the 8 to 9 year olds, riviera maya dreams does a better job with kids club and takes them out to the real pool for kid games that is always nice.

    I like Riviera Maya Mexico still a lot better.”

  • aje1084

    “The Singing Tower.” Bok Towers Gardens. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 July 2014.

  • alli65

    The Vera Bradley outlet sale sounds like a midwestern version on Filene’s Running of the Brides!  It sounds like a paisley lovers dream and a fun Mother/Daughter bonding event.  Thanks for sharing!

  • todobigo

    How’s the weather up there now? Would it be warm enough to swim outdoors in late April, or still chilly? Seems like a fun spring break getaway since we only have a few days.  Thanks for sharing.

  • CaseyB

    I love Rocky Mountain National park! It’s great for all Colorado seasons. In the winter, when other parts of the park are closed down, they open up sledding areas. When I went, we shared the hill with just one other small group. A great afternoon for all ages!

  • alli65

    In spite of all the cold weather we  have been experiencing, this story makes me want to head up to Montreal for a frosty weekend of fun.  The Montreal en Lumiere festival sounds like a winner, as does the hotel.  Thank you for the terrific seasonal suggestions!

  • NMT

    Skiing is such a wonderful way to experience Colorado’s beauty! There is such pride in that state and I love that so many resorts really cater to children too. 

    Eldora Mountain Resort wasn’t mentioned on this list, but on Saturday, March 8, they are hosting a scavenger hunt to raise money for Leave No Trace, an organization dedicated to teaching people to take care of the world around them, while also having fun. How awesome is that?! Can’t wait to hear more about it.

  • KitBernardi

         This is an excellent article. Well researched, thoughtful and motivating.  I know as a parent right now considering a family cruise this Spring Break in March, kids drowning will be on my mind even though my son is on a swim team and swims two miles five nights a week for practice.  Drowning can happen to anyone, any time, at any age.  As a former swim instructor and lifeguard myself for many years to earn summr spending money and put myself through college, I know how water is dangerous — whether in a pool, lake, baeach or bathtub.  But we all need reminding and education about what drowning looks like. And that is what you’ve done for me today. Thank you.     

         As a teen life guard, I saved a kid at our local pool who was “just floating.”  It was a crowded pool on a sticky, hot Midwest day.  A swimmer in the middle of the packed giant kids’ pool started yelling at me and pointing to the child “floating.”  I’ll never forget doing mouth-to-mouth, his wide vacant eyes, his limp body, and then him catapulting upwards, spitting, sputtering to life.  I tear up as I write this.  What if he hadn’t lived?  The guilt, the fright, the parents, the park district, the system…who to blame if the child had died?  Would I be blamed for not seeing him inactive sooner? Would the pool be blamed for allowing too many people in?  Would the park district be blamed for booking the swimming event?  Did anything change after this incident?  Yes.  I got fired. And went to work for another pool heading up their swimming lessons program.

         Thank you for writing this and your call to action for everyone to take responsibility for children around water at all hours of the day and night. Your “unthinkable” article has given us all much to think about.

  • KitBernardi

    Would be a fun vacation if you could really save money by doing it too!

  • alli65

    What an adventure, I would love to do embark on a journey like this with my teens.  The flora and fauna seem incredible, the guides professional. Thank you for sharing!

  • FTFstaff

    We’ve heard the Boeing factory tour is really interesting – wondering now if there any exhibits or parts areas that relate to the new Dreamliner. Would love to see one up close, especially being assembled after all the battery snafus.

  • FTFstaff

    Wish we all could have been there, Morocco looks fabulous and during the winter it would be a very productive coder’s retreat.

  • alurafer

    Congratulations to ALL of the students who entered in the FTF Writing Scholarship contest :3 Of course a big "congrats" should be merited to our winners, but  I think every student who entered deserves a pat on the back–hopefully they'll be inspired to continue writing, too! 

  • alli65

    This sounds like a great resort for my all-inlusive loving teen children, who have a " bigger is better" attitude.  I love that it is so close to the Cancun Airport, so you can get right to the fun as soon as you land.

  • admin

    I love the idea that guests at the hotel can "assemble" their own favorite meals from a variety of healthy offerings.  Sounds like a great idea.  If only I had time to cook so many different options every night at home!

  • cricketgirl786

    This looks like a fascinating experience to remember and to go too! I have always wanted to go to Dubai and going there is a vacation never to forget!

  • laurajones135

    One of the best states to come visit!

  • todobigo

    You make me want to go there and spend weeks on end, reconnecting with nature and making friends.  And blobbing too.  Thanks for sharing this.

  • grotel

    Cincinnati, Ohio. Just another city in the Mid-West, right? Wrong. Cincinnati is one of the greatest cities in Ohio. With our stunning river front view, our bustling downtown, and the newly gentrified Over-the-Rhine, what else could we have in store?

    For starters, Cincinnati has the 7th best zoo in the nation.Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Gardens is a great location for exploration and learning. People of all ages can appreciate the wide variety of animals found in the Zoo. Not only are the animals astounding, but guests get the chance for a hands on experience with many of the animals. For example, in Giraffe Ridge, guests can purchase a snack for the Giraffes and then feed them over the balcony. These moments will be remembered and cherished for the rest of a person's life.

    Another great accessory Cincinnati has is the new, urban planned area called "The Banks. The Banks features apartments on the second floor of the buildings and restaurants and music venues on the first floor. This is a great area for younger couples to hang out at night.

    Findlay Market is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon or weekend. Findlay Market is the oldest public market in the state of Ohio. The market is open every day but Monday and is one of the best places to find locally and organically grown foods. Another great feature about Findlay Market is that the area surrounding the market is newly gentrified, meaning that it has been refurbished. This makes the area even more desirable.

    The Newport Aquarium</a>is not located in the city of Cincinnati itself but it is an awesome place for family fun. Newport, Kentucky is only a 10 minute drive from downtown Cincinnati and has other amenities. Other places to visit while in Newport would be Dewey's Pizza, Brothers, Brio, and the Haufbrau House. All these restaurants give a different essence to the name "Cincinnati". Dewey's is a local pizza joint that runs the gamut in available options. Clever names and quick service make for a great time. Brothers and Brio are Italian restaurants that serve authentic Italian cuisine (Brothers is the less expensive option). The Haufbrau House is a German Bier Garten style restaurant that offers a large selection of beers and sandwiches. Along with normal options, the HaufBrau House also provides authentic German food. After you eat, the chicken dance is played, giving patrons the opportunity to dance on the table tops.

    Other Cincinnati food traditions are Goetta and Skyline. When German immigrants came over to America, they settled along the Ohio River, then called the "Rhine". The Germans created a meat similar to sausage called Goetta. Goetta consists of ground pork or beef, oats, and a variety of spices. This specific meat can only be found in Cincinnati and occasionally there are large festivals for Goetta and German heritage. On the other hand Skyline is chili, created by Greek immigrants. The name "Skyline" originates from the owner believing that the Cincinnati skyline was the most beautiful he had ever seen. Skyline chili has a unique flavor due to the large amount of chocolate used in the chili. 

  • tyun

    Come one come all! Memphis is the breeding grounds to fun and adventure!

  • Edmisson

    I truly love my City of Houston. Though I don't know where my education will take me, Houston will always be my home. 

  • dbruce2013

    Austin is a great place to live, love, and visit.  It has wonderful sites, people, and things to do. Everybody should visit Austin.

  • bleurose101

    Say what you will. An open mind is insightful.

  • alli65

    Thank you for this spot-on mini-review of Greve and Panzano, two of the most scenic and charming towns in Chianti.  Daniel Ferro's summer music program only adds to the area's beauty, with music in the piazza to entertain locals and visitors alike.  The rental property sounds like an excellent choice for families who choose to vacation in and explore the area.  Thanks for sharing!

  • rebornk

     

     Ames, Iowa provides many opportunities to experience American culture and become immersed in American history. Since the mid 1800s, Ames has become a booming college town. Culture has had lots of time to flourish in this time, and evidence of the age of this town can be found everywhere. Tourists coming to Ames can also feel safe and enjoy Ames' attractions without fear of crime. Gun fights in Ames are practically unheard of, and the friendly people never hesitate to wave, even at newcomers to the area. Any tourist can appreciate the age and personality of Ames, as well as its safety.

    To experience the culture in Ames, tourists must visit Stephen's Auditorium on Iowa State University's campus. This theater hosts a variety of concerts, plays, musicals, and other theatrical performances. Comfortable seating and awesome acoustics make this location a worthy contender for a relaxing night out. Big acts such as Bill Nye the Science Guy and the band Needtobreathe have to known to reserve this venue so one feels included in a special and popular event, but the space does not have an overwhelming size, so overcrowding and overheating will not deduct from the experience. Stephen's Auditorium will help in discovering the culture of Ames.

    Tourists wishing to discover some of Ames' culture would greatly benefit from attending Ames' Farmer's Market on Saturdays on Main Street. Vendors have local and homegrown produce, meat, eggs, pastries, jewelry, art and many other items for sale that offer a taste of Iowan culture. Musicians often perform for shoppers, so they can be entertained while shopping. Ames' Farmer's Market provides an excellent opportunity to experience the culture of Ames and Iowa.

    Evidence of Ames' history can be found in a visit to Iowa State University's campus. Founded in 1858, Iowa State University was the sight where George Washington Carver decided to do much of his botany research. Visitors to the college will see evidence of the age of this college in the buildings from this era that still exist. Iowa State University also housed the master minds who created the first computer. Tourists to Ames can take a trip to Durham Center in Iowa State and view the replica of this first computer. Main Street offers a taste of history also. The buildings in this area of Ames give a taste of what architecture looked like back in the early 20th century. A mural on Main Street depicts some of the founders of Ames. History holds great importance in Ames, and tourists can experience this without too much trouble.

    To curb tourist's hunger, Ames offers many excellent places for dining. No tourist should visit Ames without eating at Hickory Park. This restaurant is famous not only for its deliciously moist chicken but also its tangy barbecue sandwiches. After the main meal, enjoy sweet and creamy ice cream. Dublin Bay offers wonderful Irish cuisine for tourists to enjoy. Try the moist Shepherd's Pie with perfectly salted fries for contentment. For fans of Mexican food, El Azteca guarantees friendly service, free chips, and delectably flavorful food. Many restaurants with amiable service and food that delights the taste buds are available for hungry tourists.

    Though a relatively small town, Ames offers visitors a chance to learn about the history and culture of not only Ames, but the state of Iowa without fear of crime. Numerous attractions exist for this purpose. Visitors can also talk to the mayor of Ames, Ann Campbell, about the culture of history of Ames. City council members happily will answer questions from tourists. Tourists will not be sorry for visiting this town.

     

  • kehlianne

    Northern Nevada never stops to amaze.

  • alli65

    Sunday River has been on my radar for a potential family ski trip for quite a while.  This story is so loaded with good information, it seems like it is worth the extra time spent in the car to ski at such an excellent family resort.  Thanks!

  • alli65

    Wow, this sounds likea great merging of chocolate and history, two of my favorite subjects.
    I am looking forward to experiencing this for myself, thank you for the informative post.

  • David Ng

    I love this post so much! I hope I will come here one day!

  • alli65

    This is a terrific article that I am so glad to have read.  I didn't know there was a car-free way to appreciate the beauty of the Grand Canyon. Sounds like a fun, scenic and eco-friendly option.

  • B.garbatysmith

    Your essay moved me to tears. I am also a finalist in the scholarship and I wrote about visiting Poland’s concentration camps. I would love your opinion on my essay.

  • B.garbatysmith

    I wrote this essay hoping to bring people closer to understanding, as close to understanding as we can get. I want to share an experience that had an impact on me. This trip truly changed me, and what I want do with my life. I suggest if you have the means or are able to visit Poland or go on March of the Living. I know there are teen and family trips with BBYO.

    Thank you so much for what you said. I truly appreciate what you said. I also visited the picture of your family. Your family is beautiful and I am so glad that they were able to make it through such a devastating time.

  • alli65

    I loved reading about your romantic return to what sounds like a beatiful and vibrant island.  Thanks for sharing some of its treasures.

  • alli65

    This is a great story, thank you for sharing the glories of Octoberfest in lesser known Nerumberg. My mouth was atering reading about all of the regional delicacies that accompany the beer!

  • kindercore

    Oh goodness, this is so sad! Thanks for sharing all of this information, a lot of these things I did not know until just now. We're taught about the Holocaust at school, but I'm sure that there is nothing like actually being at a concentration camp to understand how it actually was. Thanks for sharing.

  • kindercore

    wow! This sounds like such a wonderful experience. I'm sure it was very enlightening, and it really makes me happy to read that last paragraph. I think it's beautiful that you see things that way, and I hope to some day personally come to that realization through my own experiences. Thanks so much for sharing this.

  • admin

    Hi Debbie,

    You will want he Medical Authorization Form from each child's parents with a photocopy of their insurance card.

    Then you can use the last form which is for group tours, school outings etc. It is fine for domestic travel, Include travel info for each child so that parents assign you guardianship for certain period of time only.

    Get these forms notarized. Make several photocopies in case an adventure tour operator wants to keep one. Or, if you all travel on same flights, get one long form, like a petition, and be sure both of each child's parents or guardians sign it.

    You should be fine with it. Does the hotel know? Many states say it is illegal for a minor to occupy a room without an adult present. You may need connecting rooms guaranteed.

    Enjoy the trip and write about what you did!

  • admin

    JaguarZ writes to the Admin with a very good question:

    I will be traveling to Hawaii, originating on the eastcoast, with 4 minors (only 1 is my child) – they will all be 17 at the time of travel.  I need to be able to "act as their guardian" — for example, sign waiver forms for activities, seek medical coverage if necessary.
     
    I found a form or two on the site, but they seem geared toward international travel and do not seem to include the ability to "sign the waiver forms" I mention above.  Any suggestions?  I realize I may be able to get some of these forms signed before we leave, BUT for those activities they decide on when we are there — H E L P!
     
    Thank you so much for your anticipated support
    Debbie

  • kindercore

    This is really incredible. It is a dream of mine to visit Alaska, and I hope that if I ever do get to go, that I can experience what you did. My dad and I are avid kayakers, so it was somewhat relatable, although I doubt that Miami waters are NEARLY as cool (haha) as those in Alaska.This truly sounds like the trip of a lifetime.

    I wanted to add that I loved the way you described everything, it was so beautiful and real. 

  • kindercore

    Aw, I'm so sorry that happened to your dad but I'm glad something good came out of it. My family was actually planning on going to Gatlinburg next summer but we're all way too chicken to do this white water rafting haha. Thanks for sharing this.

  • kindercore

    Thank you for sharing this! That sounds like a truly beautiful experience. I love the bit about never underestimating yourself the most, very true. 

  • kojordan2013

    *2009 not 2008

  • sarutzick

    This is about my trip to South Dakota.

  • ridajavaid228

    This trip was indeed and enriching expreience. 

  • borregsnbacon

    If you copy and paste the URL at the bottom of the post into your browser, it will take you to a video clip of the event, and if you skip to the last 12 seconds of the video you will see myself and one of my good friends sprinting in to the finish. We ended up tieing for 9th place.