Iceland: Land Of Ice And Fire - My Family Travels
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Before you travel to Iceland, read Family Travel Forum's visitior's guide. Brush up on your history and learn how to get the most out of your trip.

In 1783 the Laki volcano in this glacier-covered country erupted in a violent and prolonged paroxysm, killing a fifth of the country’s population. For 10 months, 30 billion tons of lava and sulfuric acid belched forth, creating a noxious haze that killed crops and livestock in Europe as it wound its deadly way west. Some experts say it was this eruption that led to crop failures in distant France, setting the stage for the French Revolution.

In 1996, Icelanders held their breaths, as did much of the world, while a volcano under the vast glacier Vatnajokull (vat-na-ya-schkul) erupted, melting the ice and creating a powerful underground lake desperate to break free. When it finally burst through the surface, it was violent and awesome, washing away bridges and roads, leaving a menacing sight of quicksand formed by suddenly saturated earth, which twisted like ribbons.

There are still active volcanoes in Iceland. The spring 2000 eruption of Mount Hekla has generated a lot of media attention, and tourist interest has followed suit. Four-wheel-drive Jeep tours are currently running to the volcano, offering stunning views of the eruption area, free of risk from the fumes.

Icelanders Live On The Edge

And yet, in what is surely a testimony to the wondrous ironies of life, Icelanders voted themselves the happiest people on the earth! They are fiercely loyal to this “Land of Ice and Fire,” however unsettling it may be to live here. In part, I suppose, such devotion has to do with the stunning physical beauty and purity of the land, and a deep if homogeneous culture that ties and binds the Icelanders into a tight community of survivors.

Steam rises eerily from the ground, a sign of the vast geothermal energy trapped in the earth. In 1930, Icelanders cleverly piped this energy to nearby towns to heat their homes and water. Today, Iceland burns no fossil fuel (there is virtually no pollution) and many cities are heated by these geothermal springs.

Then there are the vast, white-blue glaciers that cover the entire country, except for the coast where most of the country’s 302,000 people live. 50 percent of the population lives in or around the capital, Reykjavík (“Smoky Bay” in English).

Iceland seems forever misty and moody, with fast-moving clouds, wheeling gulls and a silence that is almost unsettling. It’s a nature lover’s paradise. The land is hauntingly beautiful and, in the classic Western sense of beauty, so are the people. Taller than the average European, they are strikingly blonde with very blue eyes and finely chiseled features – befitting their Viking heritage. Honest to a fault, reserved and very taciturn, Icelanders still use the patronymic name system. The surname is the father’s name with son or dóttir (daughter) added to it. Thus the former Icelandic president (the first woman elected president in a Democratic society) is Vigdis Finnbogadóttir, or Vigdis, daughter of Finnbogi.

A Small-Town City

Iceland is well worth a five- to seven-day visit. The country is easily accessible, very simple to navigate, and really quite unique. Flights leave directly to Keflavik airport from Boston, Halifax, Baltimore or New York or Orlando – about a four-hour flight from Boston via Icelandair. When you clear customs, it’s embarrassingly easy – grab the Flybus in front of the tiny airport ($15 U.S.) and enjoy the moonscaped, 40-minute ride to Reykjavík. U.S. astronauts practiced for their moon walk on these lava fields. The reason is quickly obvious.

Reykjavík itself is a Lilliputian city. Everything is small scale with a distinct, charming, village feel. But don’t let that fool you. It’s a sophisticated city and an expensive country. Because Iceland is an island, everything costs more than anywhere else, it seems. A hamburger and a beer could cost you $22. The portions are very small, but the food is artfully prepared and the service almost painfully caring. Lamb and fish are the staples of the Icelandic diet (supposedly there are more sheep in Iceland than people). Don’t get talked into trying the Hakrl and Brindivin – rotten, ammonia-scented shark meat washed down with an Icelandic spirit called Black Death. I’m still recovering from my macho “double dare” involving the deadly duo.

You can walk the town easily. Walk around the little pond, check out the pocket-sized Parliament building, the National Theater, and the symphony hall. For such a small and young country (no humans had set foot in Iceland when the Parthenon was already 800 years old), Iceland has several theaters, a national ballet company, a symphony orchestra, and a dozen or so galleries and museums.

English is spoken everywhere. But listen closely to the rich Icelandic language, a language unchanged for centuries. Visit the National Library and the Arni Magnusson Institute. Both contain copies of the famous Icelandic Sagas, those sprawling, Homeric, dramatic accounts of early Icelandic history that captivate young and old alike. The Njalla Saga is the most famous; and if you persist politely, one of the staff in either place might read a part of it to you in the deep, resonant, rolling Icelandic language.

Useful facts for travel to Iceland

Official Name: The Republic of Iceland

Government: Republic run by president, prime minister and parliament

Main City: Reykjavík

Languages: Icelandic. Some knowledge of English is almost universal and most people speak Danish or another Scandinavian language. French and German are also quite commonly spoken.

National Holiday: June 17, the anniversary of the establishment of the republic in 1944.

Religion: The established church is the Evangelical Lutheran Church. There is a Catholic church in Reykjavík and a number of churches for other groups.

Currency: The Icelandic monetary unit is the króna, comprised of 100 aurar. The coins and notes in use are 5, 10 and 50 aurar; 1, 10, 50 and 100 krónur coins. The notes being 100, 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 krónur. Foreign exchange is available at all bank branches around the country. Also, the Tourist Information Centre and McDonald’s in Reykjavík. Travellers’ checks widely accepted.

Airlines:  Icelandair (1-800-223-5500). Flights are available out of Halifax twice a week; out of Boston, five times a week; and out of New York, seven times a week. There are also limited flights available out of Baltimore/Washington DC, Orlando, and Minneapolis. Schedules vary seasonally. Offers packages for two-night hotel stay, daily breakfast and airport transfer. Lowest off-season fare is around $370 round trip; high-season (summer), around $1000 round trip. Flying time is 4 to 4-1/2 hours on Boeing 757-200s.

Visas: None for U.S. citizens.

Best Books to Buy: For historical and cultural interest, Iceland 4th Edition by Insight Guides, Langenscheidt, 1999. For the more curious, Lonely Planet Iceland, Greenland & the Faroe Islands, by Deanna Swaney, Lonely Planet, 2001.

Dress: In the summer, bring lightweight woolens, a sweater or cardigan, a rain-proof coat and sturdy walking shoes and your swimming suit. Campers will need warm underwear, socks, rubber boots and sleeping bags.

Climate: Because of the Gulf Stream, Iceland enjoys a cool temperate ocean climate – damp summers and fairly mild winters. However, the weather is very unpredictable and tourists should be prepared for the unexpected.

Natural Resources: Fish, hydropower, geothermal power, diatomite

Meals: You can go to local cafes and have an excellent meal for lunch or dinner for $10. An extravagant meal can cost up to $100. Liquors of any kind are expensive. Tipping is not customary in Iceland – service is invariably included for restaurants, hotels, taxis, hairdressers, etc.

Hotels: There is a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from first-class hotels of international standard to inexpensive guesthouses, B&Bs, and youth hostels.

Communications: Iceland has modern communications, including direct dialing via satellite to all four corners of the world.

Useful Number: The Iceland Tourist Bureau (212/885-9700).

 

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1 Reply to “Iceland: Land Of Ice And Fire”

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    Nestled between the lush jungle greenery of the Sierra Madre Mountains and the sparkling waters of one of the world’s largest bays, The Bay of Banderas, Puerto Vallarta has earned an international reputation as one of the best Gay tourist cities in the world.

    Being a port city and a destination for many cruise lines including RSVP and Atlantis, Puerto Vallarta is tolerant and abundant with all things gay.

    The center of the activity is the charming section of old town known as The Zona Romantica. Here you will find cobbled streets, red tiled roofs and lovely white washed buildings rich with Spanish architecture. Many gay owned and gay friendly businesses including restaurants, bars, shops and art galleries for every pallet and taste, fill the narrow streets of this splendid fishing village.

    Coming Events
    There are no scheduled events.

    Most tourists spend their day on the gay beach. With its white sand and raging surf Playa Los Muertos is the place to be and be seen. Find a deck chair, sit back and relax and let the friendly servers indulge you with great cocktails and yummy food while you unwind and watch whales and dolphins frolic in the blue ocean waters. If beaching is not for you, Puerto Vallarta offers many gay tours to fill your days. Bay cruises, horseback riding through the jungle, bike rides along the Rio Cuale and canopy tours are just a few of the many activities available.

    Late afternoon the roof top bars of the gay hotels offer entertainment and a place to enjoy and view spectacular sunsets. These lively spots are crowded with beautiful men and women drinking, laughing and sharing their stories. After the sun sinks into the ocean, it’s time for dinner. From internationally recognized 5 star restaurants to small local eateries Puerto Vallarta is a foody’s delight. At last count, Puerto Vallarta boosted over 1100 restaurants of every description. Haute cuisine to meatloaf, the list of places to dine is extensive and wonderful.

    Being a top gay destination, Puerto Vallarta offers more gay bars and dance clubs than most mid-sized American cities. Cantinas, martini bars, stripper and drag shows and fabulous dance clubs await you. As some of the clubs serve until 6am, most are not busy until 1am, so it is advisable to take that all important ¨Disco nap¨ before heading out.

    While the vast majority of gay travelers are from Canada and the United States, Vallarta, recently has seen an increase in gay tourists from Europe and as far away as Australia. Gay men and women world wide are discovering and falling in love with the little spot of paradise that is Puerto Vallarta, making it Mexico’s and perhaps the world’s, gay mecca.

    It’s good to be gay and it’s great to travel to such a gay friendly resort town. Puerto Vallarta beckons and embraces its gay tourists and it will be a spot you will return to often.

  • pinella

    Agree that the skiing is absolutely terrific – the tram to the top of the mountain makes this resort absolutely awesome top to bottom. But I think there is one level of skier/rider who would have trouble – the advanced beginner or beginning intermediate. There isn't as much terrain to select for this group. But it's a resort that you definitely have to experience at least once – and you might get hooked and never want to go anywhere else!

  • lowra

    It's important to start 'em young! Of all the family vacations you can pick that can last through the decades, skiing is the very best. When the kids are little you get a break because they're having fun in ski school. When they're older and more accomplished you can ski together. When they're teens and are whizzing past you, you can still ride up the chairlift with them and have them to yourself in the condo. Then when they're in college, you get to spend quality time with them on the slopes and in the condo because you're buying your lift ticket. It's a family vacation that can continue on as a tradition until you're too old to strap on a pair of skis…

  • lowra

    i think many accidents occur when new teen or young men (and sometimes women) who are not very experienced are out with their much-more experienced pals. They get talked into trying a part of the mountain that is too much for them and then they try to keep up. They get themselves into trouble that way and often are injured.

  • lowra

    If you are looking into hostels and you are a family, call the hostel to get a sense of the character of the place. We went to a hostel once with our elementary age kids(not in a ski area) and it was filled with young 20 somethings and teens having lots of fun – smoking pot in the parking lot, partying, etc. Even though some hostels have family rooms, if the place is full of kids it can be uncomfortable. Some hostels do have older visitors and more families, so it pays to ask.

  • lowra

    Don't forget to plan some time to see some of the other attractions in Monterey, like the aquarium, which has an amazing sea horse exhibition coming up and take a drive to Point Lobos to hike around and Big Sur to see some of California's most spectacular coastline. Have lunch at Nepenthe in Big Sur.

  • todobigo

    Great advice and some fun ideas for new places to try. thanks for sharing your family secrets!

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    All of Wyoming is a great destination with kids, but my family especially loved this place because it is really a unique bit of the Old West. Definitely worth a detour!

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  • Great article- I am a resident of oregon and my family and I enjoy the coast and central oregon. Oregon has some of the best fishing in the northwest and such a diverse climate to choose from year round. The weather is very tempermental and almost impossible to plan around so bring a rain coat and sunglasses. I think this article gave a pretty good overview of everything that Oregon has to offer.

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