Unknown Vieques - My Family Travels
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FTF gives you the inside details to the Spanish Virgin Island of Vieques, a little known Caribbean treasure neighboring Puerto Rico.

For many years, Vieques was considered the inexpensive and un-touristy “sister” of Puerto Rico, just eight miles off the much larger island’s east coast. Development of the island’s lovely Caribbean beaches had been stalled since 1947 by the U. S. Navy’s training, testing and base facilities which covered more than half the available land. Thought of as another oddball, shoestring-budget destination, it lured primarily young couples and students. After the millennium, Vieques’ fortune began to change.

The opening of the island’s first luxury resort on the northwest coast in 2003 followed the closing of the U. S. Navy’s Camp Garcia Base and the cessation of all military training and bombing exercises on the island.

Vieques’ Eco-Adventures

So far, you’ve heard that Vieques is quiet, little known, scenically pristine and a good value for the Caribbean. But it’s the large Bioluminescent Bay (in Spanish la Bahia Fosforescente) at Puerto Mosquito which put the island on the tourist map. This body of water houses millions of dinoflagellata

protozoa, microorganisms which glow in the dark as you paddle by. Your children can visit their website to read more about the science behind this phenomenon, and find information on conservation efforts to save the bay’s unique character and native fish. Although there are other phosforescent bays on Puerto Rico, Vieques’ is considered more pristine environmentally.

Despite development, its gregarious locals, hip ex-pat community, the proximity of horseback riding, off-road biking, fishing, good snorkeling, and limited dive sites continue to make Vieques a favorite among eco-adventure travelers. Companies such as Blue Caribe Kayaks (787/741-2522, 149 Calle Flamboyan, Esperanza, Vieques, PR 00765), which runs fishing trips and kayak tours, and Island Adventures (787/741-0720), which has nightly excursions to the Bioluminescent Bay, offer pick-ups from various hotels and B&Bs.

In addition to its bays and beaches, families can also spend a day touring the island’s historic Spanish Fort and the Punta Mulas Lighthouse Museum, then take in a few of Vieques’ ceramics and painting galleries.

Lodging for Adventurous Families

The former Martineau Bay Resort was taken over by Starwood properties in 2005 and began a multi-million dollar renovation in April 2007 in preperation for a relaunch, as an even more upscale property – the W Vieques Martineau Bay – in April of 2009. The old resort had very large deluxe guestrooms in three-story, plantation-style buildings on 42 acres. Each room had all the expected luxury amenities, plus balconies or terraces, with suites available. Within the resort itself was a small business and extensive fitness center, two tennis courts, and two private beaches stocked with free sailing, kayaking or snorkeling gear. The resort also had a pool with two infinity edges, a pool-side cafe, two restaurants and a 5000-square-foot spa. The 138-guestroom, 20 villa suites property will remained opened until April 2007 when it closed for its transition to the W brand. Upon reopening the staff will be retrained, concierge and spa services will be upgraded so make sure to check the website for details as the date approaches.

Among the small, simple B&Bs which traditionally housed students, FTF member Steven Masur recommends Hacienda Tamarindo ( 787/741-0420, Vieques, PR 00765), for “pleasant rooms with private baths, good service, very nice staff and wonderful views of the bay, at reasonable rates including breakfast.” This 16-room inn does not accept guests under 15 years, so Mr. Masur suggests families with younger children look at www.vieques-island.com/hotels.shtml for other suggestions.

A recent write-up in the New York Times recommended La Finca Caribe ( 787/741-0495, Rte. 995, km 1.2 00765 Puerto Rico), a few miles outside of Esperanza, with six guest rooms sleeping one to three in a central inn, plus two cottages (one sleeping three to four rents for $800-$1,050/week, the other sleeps up to five.) The main inn has shared bathrooms, an outdoor shower, communal kitchen and a large deck with hammocks to admire the view, with rates about $105-$135/N per room.

Another recommended choice is the Posada Vistamar ( 787/436-0933, Vieques, PR 00765) notable for its gourmet restaurant serving nueva latina fare. Here, small rooms sleep up to two and have private facilities, but lack a crucial Vieques accessory: mosquito netting. Note also that some of the beaches, including the secluded Green Beach, attract sand flies during cooler times of day.

Getting There and Getting Around

Vieques is south of Culebra off Puerto Rico’s east coast. It is easily reached by ferry from Fajardo (about one-hour drive from Puerto Rico’s San Juan Airport) or by a new high speed ferry. The Island HiSpeed Ferry Company (866/783 7996) vessel (they also operate in Rhode Island) departs twice daily in season from the Acuaexpreso Pier 2 in Old San Juan and takes one hour, 45 minutes to get to Culebras, before continuing on to Vieques. The roundtrip adult fare for 2008 is US$78; for children 4-12 years it’s US$63. Of the small planes, Vieques Air Link is the oldest of the companies flying. Check out The Vieques Travel Guide for current transportation options and schedules.

To take advantage of the island’s fine beaches, try the small restaurants in Esperanza or the seaside cafes of Isabel Segunda, where the Puerto Rico ferry docks. Families may want to rent a car and a few companies are available on island.

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1 Reply to “Unknown Vieques”

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    Nestled between the lush jungle greenery of the Sierra Madre Mountains and the sparkling waters of one of the world’s largest bays, The Bay of Banderas, Puerto Vallarta has earned an international reputation as one of the best Gay tourist cities in the world.

    Being a port city and a destination for many cruise lines including RSVP and Atlantis, Puerto Vallarta is tolerant and abundant with all things gay.

    The center of the activity is the charming section of old town known as The Zona Romantica. Here you will find cobbled streets, red tiled roofs and lovely white washed buildings rich with Spanish architecture. Many gay owned and gay friendly businesses including restaurants, bars, shops and art galleries for every pallet and taste, fill the narrow streets of this splendid fishing village.

    Coming Events
    There are no scheduled events.

    Most tourists spend their day on the gay beach. With its white sand and raging surf Playa Los Muertos is the place to be and be seen. Find a deck chair, sit back and relax and let the friendly servers indulge you with great cocktails and yummy food while you unwind and watch whales and dolphins frolic in the blue ocean waters. If beaching is not for you, Puerto Vallarta offers many gay tours to fill your days. Bay cruises, horseback riding through the jungle, bike rides along the Rio Cuale and canopy tours are just a few of the many activities available.

    Late afternoon the roof top bars of the gay hotels offer entertainment and a place to enjoy and view spectacular sunsets. These lively spots are crowded with beautiful men and women drinking, laughing and sharing their stories. After the sun sinks into the ocean, it’s time for dinner. From internationally recognized 5 star restaurants to small local eateries Puerto Vallarta is a foody’s delight. At last count, Puerto Vallarta boosted over 1100 restaurants of every description. Haute cuisine to meatloaf, the list of places to dine is extensive and wonderful.

    Being a top gay destination, Puerto Vallarta offers more gay bars and dance clubs than most mid-sized American cities. Cantinas, martini bars, stripper and drag shows and fabulous dance clubs await you. As some of the clubs serve until 6am, most are not busy until 1am, so it is advisable to take that all important ¨Disco nap¨ before heading out.

    While the vast majority of gay travelers are from Canada and the United States, Vallarta, recently has seen an increase in gay tourists from Europe and as far away as Australia. Gay men and women world wide are discovering and falling in love with the little spot of paradise that is Puerto Vallarta, making it Mexico’s and perhaps the world’s, gay mecca.

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  • pinella

    Agree that the skiing is absolutely terrific – the tram to the top of the mountain makes this resort absolutely awesome top to bottom. But I think there is one level of skier/rider who would have trouble – the advanced beginner or beginning intermediate. There isn't as much terrain to select for this group. But it's a resort that you definitely have to experience at least once – and you might get hooked and never want to go anywhere else!

  • lowra

    It's important to start 'em young! Of all the family vacations you can pick that can last through the decades, skiing is the very best. When the kids are little you get a break because they're having fun in ski school. When they're older and more accomplished you can ski together. When they're teens and are whizzing past you, you can still ride up the chairlift with them and have them to yourself in the condo. Then when they're in college, you get to spend quality time with them on the slopes and in the condo because you're buying your lift ticket. It's a family vacation that can continue on as a tradition until you're too old to strap on a pair of skis…

  • lowra

    i think many accidents occur when new teen or young men (and sometimes women) who are not very experienced are out with their much-more experienced pals. They get talked into trying a part of the mountain that is too much for them and then they try to keep up. They get themselves into trouble that way and often are injured.

  • lowra

    If you are looking into hostels and you are a family, call the hostel to get a sense of the character of the place. We went to a hostel once with our elementary age kids(not in a ski area) and it was filled with young 20 somethings and teens having lots of fun – smoking pot in the parking lot, partying, etc. Even though some hostels have family rooms, if the place is full of kids it can be uncomfortable. Some hostels do have older visitors and more families, so it pays to ask.

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    Great advice and some fun ideas for new places to try. thanks for sharing your family secrets!

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