Uncover Rothenburg, A Highlight Along Germany's Romantic Road - My Family Travels

Uncover the villages and byways that line Germany’s Romantic Road and enjoy unusual opportunities for family touring. This brief road trip — also available by high-speed train — is one of Europe’s favorite weekend getaways.

The “Romantic Road” is the tourist name for what used to be a major trade route in Europe during medieval times. Don’t worry about your teens; it’s not necessarily a place for romance.

Map of Germany's Romantic Road from romanticroad.com
Germany’s Romantic Road was a major trade route with many important stops. Map c. romanticroad.com

Yet, just about anyone who has ever traveled to Germany will be familiar with the medieval walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber. One of the country’s most visited towns, it’s set high on a plateau along Germany’s Romantic Road.

Families are intrigued by the many historic buildings, including cathedrals, churches and even entire well-preserved towns along the route. For road-trippers, Germany’s Romantic Road starts in Frankfurt and winds east and south throughout the German countryside.

What Families Will Love about Rothenburg

Rothenburg main square
Historic Rothenburg’s main square, seen from the B&B, is the site of the produce market.

The Romantic Road ends in Füssen where you will find Neuschwanstein, “Mad” King Ludwig’s famous fairytale castle. If it looks familiar that’s because it is the model for the Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland.  Summer visitors should explore the cobblestone streets, well-preserved architecture and castle walls. The castle transports you to medieval times and its people dress the part, too! Check out the annual Imperial City Festival, complete with torchlight processions and cattle markets.

Rothenburg happened to be right in the middle of both the east-west trade route from Prague to Paris, and the north-south trade route from Sweden to Rome. That’s why it prospered during medieval times.

We have visited Rothenburg o.d.T (as it is known by locals) several times from our home in Heidelberg. Because we have been there so often we like to see something different each time we go.

Actually, our first visit was in 2000 when we were not living in Germany. We accidentally happened upon an old renovated mill that had been turned into a very quaint Bed and Breakfast. This mill is Pension Fuchsmuehle (Familie Alexander Molitor, Taubertalweg 103, 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber.) When we took our parents back there, we looked up the old mill and decided to stay there again.

A Wonderfully German and Romantic B&B in Rothenburg

Bike over the River Tauber on a stone bridge as you discover the history of Rothenburg o.d.T. along Germany's Romantic Road. Photo c. Fuchsmuehle.de
Bike over the River Tauber on a stone bridge as you discover Rothenburg o.d.T. along Germany’s Romantic Road. Photo c. Fuchsmuehle.de

Fuchsmuehle means “the fox’s mill” in German. It’s a 14th-century mill built before the Topplecastle, which is just across the street. Alexander and Heidi Molitor renovated one of the mill buildings in 1997 and opened it as a B&B two years later. When we first stayed there, the old wooden mill wheel was still working. Our guest room was right over the stream that turned the wheel and lulled us to sleep. Talk about being on Germany’s Romantic Road.

We don’t usually like to do the “normal” tourist things. That’s why this unique bed and breakfast outside the Rothenberg town walls thrilled us. It is 60m below street level on the Tauber River, accessible by a cute covered footbridge. The bridge leads to an entrance through the Rothenberg wall and into the town’s beautiful gardens. This walk from the B&B takes about 15 minutes or less, depending on your level of fitness.

New Sights in Old Rothenberg, Germany

The classic covered bridge near the Pension Fuchsmuhle in Rothenburg o.d.T. is a historic highlight along Germany's Romantic Road. Photo c. Fuchsmuehle.de
The classic covered bridge near the Pension Fuchsmuhle in Rothenburg o.d.T. is a historic highlight along Germany’s Romantic Road. Photo c. Fuchsmuehle.de

The evening we arrived, the owner of the B&B sent us out to the Night Watchman’s Tour of Rothenberg. This tour was quite enjoyable and informative. We were led around the inner walls by a guide wearing the full garb of a 14th-century night watchman. He taught us some history that we hadn’t heard before. After the hour-long tour we made our way by flashlight, back down the path to our B&B.

There is much to do and see in Rothenburg o.d.T. Walk around the city on the top of the wall — most fun to do in daylight. Parts of the north and east walls were damaged in WWII but have been completely restored. Be sure to read the little plaques indicating the donor for each section of the repaired wall.

Within walking distance of the pension are the Medieval Kriminal Museum, St. Jakob’s Cathedral and, of course, the Ratstrinkstube. The Ratstrinkstube is the building in the main square where the famous town clock is located.

It is here that the story of the saving of Rothenberg unfolds. When the clock chimes the hour, the doors on either side of the clock open to reveal two carved figures. They raise tiny steins up to their lips like they are downing their drinks. It is said this scene is of the mayor of Rothenburg drinking a jug of wine to save the town from being burned by the Emperor in 1631.

Details for Planning a Romantic Road Trip

For those with limited time, Rothenberg is a must-see destination, conveniently located about 1.5 hours by car from Heidelberg. Most people tour all of the sites inside the walled city. However, being a German town, there are also miles of paved foot and bike paths to explore the surrounding area. Watch the below video for a virtual tour of the historic town:

The Pension Fuchsmuehle is open year round. Today the wheel is still there, as is the stream, and the ancient wheel has been restored to service. Choose from double, single or the four-person room that is ideal for families and even welcomes pets. The rooms are very clean and modern, with natural woodwork and bright, light fabrics. We would love to take the children there for Christmas to experience a Rothenberg Christmas Market. The cost is also reasonable and rates include a delicious breakfast, a full European one with eggs to order.

Germany’s Romantic Road can be toured in a more environmentally friendly way. Leave your car parked and take advantage of train service to Rothenberg from all major German cities. It’s easy to buy train tickets and rail passes in for Germany or anywhere in Europe here.

To learn more about other towns and how to visit them along the Romantic Road, please visit Germany Tourism. And on a parting note, the Romantic Road should be not confused with Germany’s Romantic Rhine. The beautiful Rhine River is lined with castles and known for its tale of lost love and romance. Families interested in a waterborne tour can read more about Croisieurope’s Romantic Rhine cruise which has discounted family pricing in summer.

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