A family hike along coastal Italy's "5 Lands" region gives sisters a perfect opportunity to bond and celebrate a milestone birthday in the Cinque Terre.
If you want to plan the ultimate hiking adventure for someone you love, read on. I turned 50 in June and I wonder if it was any accident that my sister decided to take me to a place with a five in it. Cinque Terre, Italy, or “Five Lands,” is better than 50 lands, especially when we decided to hike from one to the next.
My husband and I flew into Frankfurt, Germany, not far from where my sister lives, and we boarded a Ryan Air flight to Pisa. This site is where you really will find the cheapest flights available throughout Europe. My sister often talks of “penny flights,” but while the flights cost a penny, the taxes do add up to about US$40 round trip, a bargain nonetheless.
Once in Pisa we took a bus from the airport to the train station. After we purchased our tickets for Cinque Terre, we took a leisurely stroll through town to the great leaning tower. It was hot, it was crowded, and there was at least an hour’s wait to walk up to the top of the infamous bell tower. Reading about it and looking at the tower made me wonder: why would anyone continue to build a structure that was clearly sinking from the beginning of construction? Answered my brother in law, “So tourists would come by the thousands to pay and see it.” We debated whether to wait until after 6pm to make the climb but decided it was best to move on. There are parts of Pisa, while beautiful, that are “sketchy” as my teenaged son would say. There is construction by the train station and some very “colorful” people decorating the area. People I don't think I'd want to pass in the dark.
During the hour-and-a-half-long train ride from Pisa to Manarola, gateway to the Cinque Terre, there was nothing really striking until we saw what looked like snow-covered mountains. We were in Carrera, home of Carrera marble, and that wasn't snow we were looking at, but chiseled mountains of marble. Not long after that eye opener we went through a dark tunnel and emerged looking over the Mediterranean Sea. It was a breathtaking sight with the sea on one side, and the rugged coastline on the other.
The Coastline at Manarola
We arrived in Manarola and had no idea where to go. We walked from the train station through a tunnel into a pleasant coastal village that went straight up hill. Nothing was open, no one was around, the sun was setting behind the mountain and so we walked up and kept walking for quite awhile. Our bed and breakfast, Da Baranin di Barani Sara (Via Rollandi 29, 19010 Manarola (SP); 39/0187 920595) appeared to be nestled, like the town, right in the side of the mountain.
Our first priority was dinner. “Billy's” was right around the corner. Walking straight down several dozen steps, we found a terrace where about 12 people could dine comfortably. The waiter told us there was no room. Thank goodness my husband speaks fluent Italian; he was able to convince Billy that we could sit two at a table and fit just fine. Billy relented and wound up putting tables together to accommodate us. The seafood was magnificent — plump juicy mussels, a seafood salad of squid and shrimp, freshly pressed virgin olive oil in which to dunk our homemade bread, and wine. We thought it best to test both white wines from the region, several bottles, in fact, to make sure the flavor would never leave our palates. Suffice to say, it was easier walking down to Billy's than walking back up to the street and down the mountain back to our rooms.
From Manarola to Monterossa
The next day was warm and sunny and perfect for a hike. At the train station we purchased train and hiking passes that allowed us to train or hike through the five towns. The map said it was a 5½-hour hike from Manarola to Monterosso but only 9 kilometers. We did it in 4 hours and managed to stop in each beautiful coastal town along the way.
In Corniglia, we had water and moved onto Vernazza where we found pesto pizza. From looking at the size of the basil growing along the hillside and smelling its fragrance, we knew it had to be good. So out came the pizza and the paintbrush dipped in what looked like a vat of pesto, then the chef smothered it with tomato and cheese to create an explosion of flavor. There is a small beach in this "Land" and a castle. We hiked up to the top of the castle to survey the views, and back down to the beach to feel the water that was a beautiful blue-green and so inviting.
Then, back to the hills we went, winding up steep hills, over rocks, looking down on the coast and meeting people from all over the world along the way. In some places there are steep steps going straight up which can only mean steep steps on the way down. Up in the hills were lemon trees with fruit the size of cantalopes, romaine lettuce leaves large enough in which to wrap up a small child, along with beautiful flowers and vines. Farmers built terraces in the steep hills on which to grow their grapes for wine and other crops, making it look like steps of green winding right up to the top of the mountains.
At the end of the day we found ourselves in Monterosso. The village was packed with tourists, and a 10-year-old Italian boy with an accordion who wandered the piazza playing no more than two measures of the same song over and over again and holding his hand out for change.
After a dip in the Mediterranean and a couple of Becks, we were on the train back to Manarola just in time to buy local wine, bread, cheese and pesto. Once back at the bed and breakfast we were accommodated with ice, glasses, knives and plates, and on our terrace and we relaxed and enjoyed the food and the spectacular view.
Manarola to Riomaggiore
The next day we planned to train it from one town to the next. Our "Cinque Terra Card" for hiking was good for three days and included train and bus transportation between the five towns. When you plan for such an excursion in Italy you can expect only one thing, a strike…on a Friday.
So, we went for a short walk up the hill, this time going the opposite direction toward Riomaggiore, the fifth town, walking down to the sea and about two hours later, straight up to Monte Nero, a church with a bell tower on top of the hill. We stopped at a Nature Center, Torre Guardiola, half way up. Good thing they served lunch and beer (or Pils as they say in Germany) at the top. The walk down went much faster than the walk up and we wound up taking the Via dell Amore, the path between Riomaggiore and Manarola where lovers used to meet.
The Beach Below Monterosso
On our last day we took the train to Monterosso, where we swore we would take it easy. But why do that when there are trails we hadn't scaled?
So straight up we went through what looked like forests you would find in Yellowstone National Park to the ruins of St. Antonio with spectacular views of the entire coastline. We hiked back to the beach where we actually spent the rest of the day frolicking in the Mediterranean, eating fresh mozzarella cheese, tomatoes and you guessed it, basil.
I was amazed at the way Italian people beach. There are no waves to speak of like at the Jersey shore, so body surfing and boogie boarding are out. For the most part you just bob around, get out, and go back to your chair to read, sleep or watch the people packed in like sardines with their colorful umbrellas and chairs, not to mention beachwear or lack of it.
Touring Levanto in the Cinque Terre
As we headed out on our final day we decided we had to try and see Levanto. After all, it was the furthest west we could go. It’s a shame we only had 15 minutes to see the place once we got off the train… it took us 16 minutes to walk a few blocks and we missed the train. Some high anxiety followed but another train came along and guess who was on board? The little Italian boy with the accordion was playing the same two measures of the only song he apparently knew, holding his hand out for money.
This is the first time I ever took a vacation I had nothing to do with. My sister, Lyn, planned the whole thing. She could have flown back to the States and thrown me a party, but that would have lasted just one night and how many people can you really call your friends anyway?
When it comes down to it, all we really have is family and nothing beats sharing a travel memory that will last a lifetime. I can't wait to see what she dreams up for my 60th. Is there a sessanta terre?
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On January 15, 2015, Google announced that it would stop selling the Google Glass product to consumers — who became its “Explorers” — while it makes more improvements to the technology and hardware. Simultaneously, the product will move from its test phase at Google X and become its own department within the giant technology company.
For complete details, please see this story: Google Glass Sales Halted.
This is a great summary of emerging family travel trends in 2015. I am very excited to see ecotourism evolving to include the youngest travelers as well as multi-gen travelers. Very interesting to see uber attempt to dig into the family market. As for all-inclusive hotels, after years of resisiting, I am finally a convert. My kids have always loved them and now their parents finally see the ease and economy of the pay-one-price concept. Happy Travels in 2015!
great feedback on what we’re seeing for 2015; agree that ecotourism has become so mainstream that it’s time all ages and all abilities (including those with disabilities) are included in nature-focused travel.
And yes, disruptive technologies like uber and airbnb are usually started by young people and grow by appealing to young travelers, but as we all know, they too will settle down and have kids and then look at new ways to make their services more “family-friendly.” So that’s an area where we see tremendous growth potential and hope for fresh ideas.
excited about what’s coming in 2015! Thanks for your comments.
I’m in, would love to win a stay at the Camelback water park in Pennsylvania. Close to my NJ home and sounds like a fun snowy or rainy day break with my boys. Sign me up!
After returning from a vacation with her daughter, C.S. shared this review of the Dreams Punta Cana resort in the Dominican Republic.
“Hi, we did not get sick at Dreams Punta Cana, stuck to bottled water, they were nice there not really attentive at concierge or lobby not knowledgeable and internet not working well, entertainment was okay and food just okay beach nice, tours not organized very well for swim with dolphins and no shopping for malls provided.
Yes the food was not great at all, hoping for better at gourmet restaurants, they always burnt the steak and not great the food, the world café was fine, buffet.
Kids club for my 8 year old she was bored, most of the kids were younger and not a lot to do for the 8 to 9 year olds, riviera maya dreams does a better job with kids club and takes them out to the real pool for kid games that is always nice.
I like Riviera Maya Mexico still a lot better.”
“The Singing Tower.” Bok Towers Gardens. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 July 2014.
The Vera Bradley outlet sale sounds like a midwestern version on Filene’s Running of the Brides! It sounds like a paisley lovers dream and a fun Mother/Daughter bonding event. Thanks for sharing!
How’s the weather up there now? Would it be warm enough to swim outdoors in late April, or still chilly? Seems like a fun spring break getaway since we only have a few days. Thanks for sharing.
I love Rocky Mountain National park! It’s great for all Colorado seasons. In the winter, when other parts of the park are closed down, they open up sledding areas. When I went, we shared the hill with just one other small group. A great afternoon for all ages!
In spite of all the cold weather we have been experiencing, this story makes me want to head up to Montreal for a frosty weekend of fun. The Montreal en Lumiere festival sounds like a winner, as does the hotel. Thank you for the terrific seasonal suggestions!
Skiing is such a wonderful way to experience Colorado’s beauty! There is such pride in that state and I love that so many resorts really cater to children too.
Eldora Mountain Resort wasn’t mentioned on this list, but on Saturday, March 8, they are hosting a scavenger hunt to raise money for Leave No Trace, an organization dedicated to teaching people to take care of the world around them, while also having fun. How awesome is that?! Can’t wait to hear more about it.
This is an excellent article. Well researched, thoughtful and motivating. I know as a parent right now considering a family cruise this Spring Break in March, kids drowning will be on my mind even though my son is on a swim team and swims two miles five nights a week for practice. Drowning can happen to anyone, any time, at any age. As a former swim instructor and lifeguard myself for many years to earn summr spending money and put myself through college, I know how water is dangerous — whether in a pool, lake, baeach or bathtub. But we all need reminding and education about what drowning looks like. And that is what you’ve done for me today. Thank you.
As a teen life guard, I saved a kid at our local pool who was “just floating.” It was a crowded pool on a sticky, hot Midwest day. A swimmer in the middle of the packed giant kids’ pool started yelling at me and pointing to the child “floating.” I’ll never forget doing mouth-to-mouth, his wide vacant eyes, his limp body, and then him catapulting upwards, spitting, sputtering to life. I tear up as I write this. What if he hadn’t lived? The guilt, the fright, the parents, the park district, the system…who to blame if the child had died? Would I be blamed for not seeing him inactive sooner? Would the pool be blamed for allowing too many people in? Would the park district be blamed for booking the swimming event? Did anything change after this incident? Yes. I got fired. And went to work for another pool heading up their swimming lessons program.
Thank you for writing this and your call to action for everyone to take responsibility for children around water at all hours of the day and night. Your “unthinkable” article has given us all much to think about.
Would be a fun vacation if you could really save money by doing it too!
What an adventure, I would love to do embark on a journey like this with my teens. The flora and fauna seem incredible, the guides professional. Thank you for sharing!
We’ve heard the Boeing factory tour is really interesting – wondering now if there any exhibits or parts areas that relate to the new Dreamliner. Would love to see one up close, especially being assembled after all the battery snafus.
Wish we all could have been there, Morocco looks fabulous and during the winter it would be a very productive coder’s retreat.
Congratulations to ALL of the students who entered in the FTF Writing Scholarship contest :3 Of course a big "congrats" should be merited to our winners, but I think every student who entered deserves a pat on the back–hopefully they'll be inspired to continue writing, too!
This sounds like a great resort for my all-inlusive loving teen children, who have a " bigger is better" attitude. I love that it is so close to the Cancun Airport, so you can get right to the fun as soon as you land.
I love the idea that guests at the hotel can "assemble" their own favorite meals from a variety of healthy offerings. Sounds like a great idea. If only I had time to cook so many different options every night at home!
This looks like a fascinating experience to remember and to go too! I have always wanted to go to Dubai and going there is a vacation never to forget!
Enjoy
One of the best states to come visit!
You make me want to go there and spend weeks on end, reconnecting with nature and making friends. And blobbing too. Thanks for sharing this.
Cincinnati, Ohio. Just another city in the Mid-West, right? Wrong. Cincinnati is one of the greatest cities in Ohio. With our stunning river front view, our bustling downtown, and the newly gentrified Over-the-Rhine, what else could we have in store?
For starters, Cincinnati has the 7th best zoo in the nation.Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Gardens is a great location for exploration and learning. People of all ages can appreciate the wide variety of animals found in the Zoo. Not only are the animals astounding, but guests get the chance for a hands on experience with many of the animals. For example, in Giraffe Ridge, guests can purchase a snack for the Giraffes and then feed them over the balcony. These moments will be remembered and cherished for the rest of a person's life.
Another great accessory Cincinnati has is the new, urban planned area called "The Banks. The Banks features apartments on the second floor of the buildings and restaurants and music venues on the first floor. This is a great area for younger couples to hang out at night.
Findlay Market is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon or weekend. Findlay Market is the oldest public market in the state of Ohio. The market is open every day but Monday and is one of the best places to find locally and organically grown foods. Another great feature about Findlay Market is that the area surrounding the market is newly gentrified, meaning that it has been refurbished. This makes the area even more desirable.
The Newport Aquarium</a>is not located in the city of Cincinnati itself but it is an awesome place for family fun. Newport, Kentucky is only a 10 minute drive from downtown Cincinnati and has other amenities. Other places to visit while in Newport would be Dewey's Pizza, Brothers, Brio, and the Haufbrau House. All these restaurants give a different essence to the name "Cincinnati". Dewey's is a local pizza joint that runs the gamut in available options. Clever names and quick service make for a great time. Brothers and Brio are Italian restaurants that serve authentic Italian cuisine (Brothers is the less expensive option). The Haufbrau House is a German Bier Garten style restaurant that offers a large selection of beers and sandwiches. Along with normal options, the HaufBrau House also provides authentic German food. After you eat, the chicken dance is played, giving patrons the opportunity to dance on the table tops.
Other Cincinnati food traditions are Goetta and Skyline. When German immigrants came over to America, they settled along the Ohio River, then called the "Rhine". The Germans created a meat similar to sausage called Goetta. Goetta consists of ground pork or beef, oats, and a variety of spices. This specific meat can only be found in Cincinnati and occasionally there are large festivals for Goetta and German heritage. On the other hand Skyline is chili, created by Greek immigrants. The name "Skyline" originates from the owner believing that the Cincinnati skyline was the most beautiful he had ever seen. Skyline chili has a unique flavor due to the large amount of chocolate used in the chili.
Come one come all! Memphis is the breeding grounds to fun and adventure!
I truly love my City of Houston. Though I don't know where my education will take me, Houston will always be my home.
Austin is a great place to live, love, and visit. It has wonderful sites, people, and things to do. Everybody should visit Austin.
Say what you will. An open mind is insightful.
Thank you for this spot-on mini-review of Greve and Panzano, two of the most scenic and charming towns in Chianti. Daniel Ferro's summer music program only adds to the area's beauty, with music in the piazza to entertain locals and visitors alike. The rental property sounds like an excellent choice for families who choose to vacation in and explore the area. Thanks for sharing!
Ames, Iowa provides many opportunities to experience American culture and become immersed in American history. Since the mid 1800s, Ames has become a booming college town. Culture has had lots of time to flourish in this time, and evidence of the age of this town can be found everywhere. Tourists coming to Ames can also feel safe and enjoy Ames' attractions without fear of crime. Gun fights in Ames are practically unheard of, and the friendly people never hesitate to wave, even at newcomers to the area. Any tourist can appreciate the age and personality of Ames, as well as its safety.
To experience the culture in Ames, tourists must visit Stephen's Auditorium on Iowa State University's campus. This theater hosts a variety of concerts, plays, musicals, and other theatrical performances. Comfortable seating and awesome acoustics make this location a worthy contender for a relaxing night out. Big acts such as Bill Nye the Science Guy and the band Needtobreathe have to known to reserve this venue so one feels included in a special and popular event, but the space does not have an overwhelming size, so overcrowding and overheating will not deduct from the experience. Stephen's Auditorium will help in discovering the culture of Ames.
Tourists wishing to discover some of Ames' culture would greatly benefit from attending Ames' Farmer's Market on Saturdays on Main Street. Vendors have local and homegrown produce, meat, eggs, pastries, jewelry, art and many other items for sale that offer a taste of Iowan culture. Musicians often perform for shoppers, so they can be entertained while shopping. Ames' Farmer's Market provides an excellent opportunity to experience the culture of Ames and Iowa.
Evidence of Ames' history can be found in a visit to Iowa State University's campus. Founded in 1858, Iowa State University was the sight where George Washington Carver decided to do much of his botany research. Visitors to the college will see evidence of the age of this college in the buildings from this era that still exist. Iowa State University also housed the master minds who created the first computer. Tourists to Ames can take a trip to Durham Center in Iowa State and view the replica of this first computer. Main Street offers a taste of history also. The buildings in this area of Ames give a taste of what architecture looked like back in the early 20th century. A mural on Main Street depicts some of the founders of Ames. History holds great importance in Ames, and tourists can experience this without too much trouble.
To curb tourist's hunger, Ames offers many excellent places for dining. No tourist should visit Ames without eating at Hickory Park. This restaurant is famous not only for its deliciously moist chicken but also its tangy barbecue sandwiches. After the main meal, enjoy sweet and creamy ice cream. Dublin Bay offers wonderful Irish cuisine for tourists to enjoy. Try the moist Shepherd's Pie with perfectly salted fries for contentment. For fans of Mexican food, El Azteca guarantees friendly service, free chips, and delectably flavorful food. Many restaurants with amiable service and food that delights the taste buds are available for hungry tourists.
Though a relatively small town, Ames offers visitors a chance to learn about the history and culture of not only Ames, but the state of Iowa without fear of crime. Numerous attractions exist for this purpose. Visitors can also talk to the mayor of Ames, Ann Campbell, about the culture of history of Ames. City council members happily will answer questions from tourists. Tourists will not be sorry for visiting this town.
Northern Nevada never stops to amaze.
Sunday River has been on my radar for a potential family ski trip for quite a while. This story is so loaded with good information, it seems like it is worth the extra time spent in the car to ski at such an excellent family resort. Thanks!
Wow, this sounds likea great merging of chocolate and history, two of my favorite subjects.
I am looking forward to experiencing this for myself, thank you for the informative post.
I love this post so much! I hope I will come here one day!
This is a terrific article that I am so glad to have read. I didn't know there was a car-free way to appreciate the beauty of the Grand Canyon. Sounds like a fun, scenic and eco-friendly option.
Your essay moved me to tears. I am also a finalist in the scholarship and I wrote about visiting Poland’s concentration camps. I would love your opinion on my essay.
I wrote this essay hoping to bring people closer to understanding, as close to understanding as we can get. I want to share an experience that had an impact on me. This trip truly changed me, and what I want do with my life. I suggest if you have the means or are able to visit Poland or go on March of the Living. I know there are teen and family trips with BBYO.
Thank you so much for what you said. I truly appreciate what you said. I also visited the picture of your family. Your family is beautiful and I am so glad that they were able to make it through such a devastating time.
I loved reading about your romantic return to what sounds like a beatiful and vibrant island. Thanks for sharing some of its treasures.
This is a great story, thank you for sharing the glories of Octoberfest in lesser known Nerumberg. My mouth was atering reading about all of the regional delicacies that accompany the beer!
Oh goodness, this is so sad! Thanks for sharing all of this information, a lot of these things I did not know until just now. We're taught about the Holocaust at school, but I'm sure that there is nothing like actually being at a concentration camp to understand how it actually was. Thanks for sharing.
wow! This sounds like such a wonderful experience. I'm sure it was very enlightening, and it really makes me happy to read that last paragraph. I think it's beautiful that you see things that way, and I hope to some day personally come to that realization through my own experiences. Thanks so much for sharing this.
Hi Debbie,
You will want he Medical Authorization Form from each child's parents with a photocopy of their insurance card.
Then you can use the last form which is for group tours, school outings etc. It is fine for domestic travel, Include travel info for each child so that parents assign you guardianship for certain period of time only.
Get these forms notarized. Make several photocopies in case an adventure tour operator wants to keep one. Or, if you all travel on same flights, get one long form, like a petition, and be sure both of each child's parents or guardians sign it.
You should be fine with it. Does the hotel know? Many states say it is illegal for a minor to occupy a room without an adult present. You may need connecting rooms guaranteed.
Enjoy the trip and write about what you did!
JaguarZ writes to the Admin with a very good question:
I will be traveling to Hawaii, originating on the eastcoast, with 4 minors (only 1 is my child) – they will all be 17 at the time of travel. I need to be able to "act as their guardian" — for example, sign waiver forms for activities, seek medical coverage if necessary.
I found a form or two on the site, but they seem geared toward international travel and do not seem to include the ability to "sign the waiver forms" I mention above. Any suggestions? I realize I may be able to get some of these forms signed before we leave, BUT for those activities they decide on when we are there — H E L P!
Thank you so much for your anticipated support
Debbie
This is really incredible. It is a dream of mine to visit Alaska, and I hope that if I ever do get to go, that I can experience what you did. My dad and I are avid kayakers, so it was somewhat relatable, although I doubt that Miami waters are NEARLY as cool (haha) as those in Alaska.This truly sounds like the trip of a lifetime.
I wanted to add that I loved the way you described everything, it was so beautiful and real.
Aw, I'm so sorry that happened to your dad but I'm glad something good came out of it. My family was actually planning on going to Gatlinburg next summer but we're all way too chicken to do this white water rafting haha. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you for sharing this! That sounds like a truly beautiful experience. I love the bit about never underestimating yourself the most, very true.
*2009 not 2008
This is about my trip to South Dakota.
This trip was indeed and enriching expreience.
If you copy and paste the URL at the bottom of the post into your browser, it will take you to a video clip of the event, and if you skip to the last 12 seconds of the video you will see myself and one of my good friends sprinting in to the finish. We ended up tieing for 9th place.